Alexander Noisky – On the impact of conscious consumption of luxury brands

Alexander Noisky - On the impact of conscious consumption of luxury brands

Trend expert Alexander Shumsky in 2000 began to produce seasonal shows.

The Russian Fashion Week Fashion Week in 2011 was renamed Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.

Currently, this is the largest fashion event in the field of fashion in Russia and Eastern Europe, which is held twice a year.

In 2014, Shumsky headed the National Fashion Chamber, and in 2019 he became a co-founder of the Fashion Fund together with Aisel Trudel, founder of Aizel.

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The Fashion Chamber and the Fashion Foundation are jointly developing a free platform for young designers Futurum Moscow and a number of educational projects.

Test of endurance The luxury industry leaves the quarantine, but so that doubts appear in the success of this process.

First of all, the leading brands decided to experience the loyalty of their customers for strength and together raised prices.

The Chanel brand said that since June it will significantly increase prices for its products – up to 25% for some models.

This caused a stir among the wealthy fans of the brand in Asia – the queues lined up in the stores.

Long, given the physical distance: Chinese and Koreans wanted to have time to be cooked until the price tag is changing.

In Seoul, Chanel gathered so many people that the authorities demanded to “cover the bench”, fearing the Covid-19 outbreak.

Other large players also announced the increase in prices, but Louis Vuitton, for example, acted neatly, lifting them by 3% in March and 5% in April.

The desire to compensate for losses from pandemia is understandable, but in the case of luxury brands, this can cause another wave of criticism, primarily from loyal customers.

This was reminded by a joke from the 90s, which all shopping veterans know.

One new Russian asks the other, how much bought a Versace tie, he replies: for $ 100.

Then the first says: here you are a sucker, they sell $ 200 around an angle.

The name Versace sounded not by chance – this was the first monobutik in Moscow, which opened on the Kuznetsk bridge, when non -formals were still gathered in Petrovka and Stoleshnikov, rather than clients of jewelry stores.

Photo: RIA Novosti But I’m not talking about Versace now – we are talking about the fact that in the coordinate system of that time it was the price that determined the exclusivity and fashion of goods for a certain layer of society, with which few people want to be associated today.

At the same time, the price was assigned based on how much the client is ready to pay, so for a long time fashionable clothes in Russian stores were truly road, when compared with Europe.

The post-icing initiatives of world luxury holdings can cause nervous laughter from their devoted customers if the latter for a second think for whom their favorite brands actually hold them.

The current increase in prices is the direct recognition that this price is prescribed by voluntarist.

The high cost of luxury goods could never be justified by production costs, but this was not necessary.

Yes, customers probably understand that Chanel’s costs of the Chanel bag are approximately the same as the Midnetnish brands, and Louis Vuitton generally produces shoes at its own factories in Romania, but this did not excite them too much – they did not pay for the skin and work.

The only thing that justified the price tag is high costs for marketing and the maintenance of high -class stores.

Well, the most important thing is the history of the brand, his connection with the stars and important events.

Leading brands practiced an annual increase in prices, as if testing the market, how far it is possible to go.

But Koronavirus confused all the plans.

Green economy Seven questions about the influence of the fashion industry on the ecology For honest prices During forced self-isolation, many consumers revised their attitude to shopping adheres.

More and more people, including luxury buyers, are moving towards conscious consumption.

What if the reason for the failure of the cruise online presentation of Chanel is this? CHANEL on June 8 introduced a new cruise collection on the Internet, canceling the show in Capri.

As the statistics showed, an expensive seven -minute video of even such a fashion brand aroused limited interest.

At YouTube for a week, less than 100 thousand at 1.

6 million subscribers watched it, and on Instagram – 400 thousand times at 40 million subscribers.

Moreover, one marketing agency was calculated by the Media Value hashtag #Chanelcruise in May 2019, when the cruise collection of last year was presented, and now.

It turned out that the “weight” of 2019 is 16 times more than 2020.

Yes, and in YouTube the numbers of the last year are different – the record of the show from the Grand Palais in Paris watched almost 700 thousand times.

That is, Chanel did not even come close to the result of last year.

Perhaps the lack of a physical event played a role.

If such statistics are confirmed by other brands, then the increase in prices can be very negative for the prospect of business development.

An honest price, including decent payments throughout the supply chain, is one of the main components of the concept of “conscious consumption”.

This is what today largely determines the behavior of the growing army of buyers: millennials, generations Z and other, younger marketing groups of consumers.

Green economy They meet on clothes: what is the role of packaging in responsible consumption Having received a negative in the West, luxury brands will be forced to abandon all their strength to maintain customer loyalty in China, where environmental protection, conscious consumption and other “sustainability” (Sustainability ”are much less concerned about boutiques.

In the multimillion -dollar Chinese middle class, the largest in the world in quantitative terms, there is no particular reflection of the skin of exotic animals, furs and labor operation, which became the banners of “sustainable fashion”.

For example, China occupies almost 60% of the global market for fur products.

Moreover, Asian obsession with brands and price is quite comparable with patterns of the behavior of “new Russians” from jokes and real life, where luxury is not so much a cult as a demonstration of prosperity and superiority.

Photo: Andrey Rudakov / Bloomberg In Russia, its own specifics, but here the increase in prices can be found with understanding.

The main consumers of luxury goods are today those who rarely fall into the list of customers in other countries: officials, security forces and members of their families.

And although it can be stated that conditional gray costumes were replaced by metaphorical raspberry jackets, the attitude to prices did not change much – they are also used as a measure of success and provincial oldlets and capital -serving capital.

But if the Chinese market provides up to half the sales of luxury brands, then Russia is literally a few percent.

In any case, for the luxury industry it is necessary to return to the real world, where every day the concept of “conscious consumption” acquires more and more weight, and as quickly as possible.

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